On a perfect spring morning in the fishing village of Rockport on Cape Ann, Massachusetts, just a few lobster boats are moored in the calm harbor. In June the recreational boats will start showing up—but for now, these protected waters are the exclusive domain of commercial fishermen. The ice cream shops and gift shops on Bearskin Neck are still shuttered, and you can get a parking spot downtown pretty much anywhere you please. Today, a couple of fisherman and their wives are pushing strollers on Main Street. One proud father is boasting about how much his infant likes being on board his boat.
